Ecuador’s Treasured Galapagos Islands
The Galapagos Playground of Darwin
A few days in Quito was sufficient for many sights, although I’m hesitant to compartmentalize this city into such a narrow experience. The short stay is likely far from a true depiction, but I optimized the experience. Plus, I had another destination in mind…the highly coveted Galapagos Islands, where unique experiences come in multiples.
I never thought I would make it here, but the reasonable flights from Quito can’t be denied. My grandmother’s ongoing appreciation coupled with Charles Darwin’s positive reflection assured my critical mind that it would be a worthy visit. (It may be one of the few things agreeable for Darwin and I, but nevertheless it’s a big one.)
Santa Cruz Island
Landing on this volcanic archipelago stranded in the Pacific Ocean is uniquely memorable. A barren landscape scattered with cactus? It felt apocalyptic, or as if we had landed on another planet. All visitors to the island are required to pay the national parks fees totaling around $120. It seems steep and unjustified, but once you’ve indulged it’ll be the last thing on your mind.
A transfer is required to get on the main island, then another bus ride to reach Santa Cruz. This is a popular hub for all travelers to the islands, whether you’re on an extended cruise trip or just a budget traveler like myself trying to piece an on the fly trip together. (Be advised, preparation for this place is the best option. Too many barriers to creativity on highly regulated islands.)
After a gorgeous rooftop sunset with the lizards at my hotel, I decided to explore the center of this small city. I found this awesome little spot for food. Literally some of the best shrimp I’ve ever had smothered in coconut sauce. Continuous bursts of dopamine. Later on I crossed paths with women on my flight from Quito. We had a few margaritas and made plans to hook up the next day and explore.
Tortoise Time
An early rise the next day to meet my new Korean friend, Sun. Our first stop was at the Darwin Research Center where we experienced a collection of tortoises and iguanas never before seen. The most memorable part was tortoise mating…surprisingly quite similar to a human circumstance. Males overbearingly aggressive and females shrugging them off in boredom. A lot of laughs.
From there we oddly chose to see MORE tortoises. I say oddly not because I didn’t want to go beforehand, but because I had seen my life’s share of tortoises by the end of our visit to El Chato. Hindsight is 20/20.
Tortuga Bay…now that was the highlight of the day. We hadn’t eaten much and out of desperation grabbed some ice cream heading to the beach. The sand was white and the water a dazzling blend of blues. Marine iguanas slithered near the trees and bushes, often unbeknownst to us as we almost stepped on them a few times. They blend in! (I don’t need to know how that would’ve played out.)
We found a good spot to swim and converse. Maybe a little deep for a first hang out session, but when it’s natural it really doesn’t matter. I love meeting people who are comfortable enough in their own skin to not be concerned about what’s commonly considered socially acceptable.
The Streets of Puerto Ayora
The hunger exceeded its limit and we chose to head back for empanadas. Just a light snack to hold us over for dinner later. Sun chose to freshen up at the hotel while I walked around the harbor…such an interesting place.
Streets lined with shops and restaurants…some unique in design and some very aged with time. Street art and mosaics detailing the islands’ interesting history. Pelicans hovering above and surveying their next feed. A skate park as well as sport courts for the kids. My favorite…sea lions lounging on random benches along the water. They’re everywhere!
We grabbed some dinner at the little market of restaurants offering communal seating. Encocado Pescado was the winner. (That’s coconut fish for you non-Spanish speakers.) Afterwards we went to the Bongo Bar for some drinks and talked more about life and what was next for each of us. A fairly low key evening that ended early.
Snorkeling at Isla Pinzon
Early rise for a highly memorable day. It comes as no surprise that food was involved. Breakfast included bolon completo at a local cafe, free of tourists. Euphoric. Feeling fully satisfied, I was set for a day tour to visit the beautiful Isla Pinzon!
Language barriers can be a funny thing. Sometimes good and others not so good. I lucked out this day. What I didn’t know when booking the tour was that it also catered to deep sea fishers. A first experience for me, and I wouldn’t hesitate to do it again. The rest of the group had all come together, two families of young couples with kids. Very cool people who owned flower shops in Idaho that sourced flowers from Quito. The randomness makes up the essence of that experience.
Yellowfin Tuna and Jack Johnson
We cruised the Pacific jamming to Jack Johnson in search of lunch. The feeling was out of this world for me…no words can explain it. After an hour of chasing birds, we were fortunate to end up with a forty pound yellowfin tuna! It was as delicious on a level of freshness one rarely enjoys. The guides cut it up for sushi on the spot. On point to the hundredth degree. Upon arrival to the island we assembled our snorkeling gear and pressed on.
Sharks, Sea Turtles, Sea Lions
This was my first encounter in the underwater world and my mind was blown. Clear skies and intense sun created an ideal transparency of water. As a group we circled the island to explore its surrounding inhabitants. After about ten minutes of fumbling around with my phone and choking down salt water while trying to document the experience, we were confronted by nearly twenty sharks! There was comfort found in memory of the guide briefing that revealed the sharks disinterest with humans, but it certainly didn’t remove the adrenaline that fills your body in real time. WHAT A RUSH.
As we circled Pinzon revealed more of this incredibly peaceful world that lives beneath us. It’s quite vivid to me, as I think many first experiences can be. Continued enjoyment was found surrounded by a family of sea lions. Playful as ever, they were as enchanted with us as we were with them. What a moment.
Not too far ahead sprung schools of tropical fish decorated with unimaginable color schemes. Literally thousands of them swimming in unison, vibrantly frantic. On the final turn, giant sea tortoises wait to swim alongside you as though they were placed to escort you back to your boat. Immensely peaceful animals that gracefully exist in their own world, living far longer than most animals ever will. Any chance of a replicated human lifestyle producing the same result? Likely.
The feelings experienced in this precious hour were some of the most awe inspiring in all places I’ve visited. A new world revealed. A tarnished soul revived. A cluttered brain stimulated. The group had their fill and gathered on the boat to finish off our freshly grilled catch from earlier. As delectable as that sounded, my high refused to be cut short. Envisioning myself alone swimming the Pacific seemed overwhelmingly daunting to logic, but fear was no match for newfound curiosity. I had no choice but to go again.
